Sent 3/18/2010 From Exuma Land and Sea Park
We lucked out at the fuel dock just before departing Nassau. Two boats that had been anchored had gone onto the dock earlier, so by the time we arrived, I was able to get one of the dock hand's attention and toss him a line. It seems that most of the locals, while friendly, don't go out of their way to be helpful. We'd noticed even the local boats who took on fuel at Harbour Central had to hunt for someone to open up the fuel pump. We filled the water tanks which were getting empty, and topped off the fuel tank which was almost full. With the windy conditions, we've done more sailing than motoring than in the past.
A coral head
Once clear of the harbor, we set sails and had a great sail down to Allans Cay, one of the few anchorages that offer protection from a west wind. We had good light so crossing the Yellow Bank, a shallow area spotted with black coral heads, was easy. We were the first boat into the anchorage, and had our pick of spots to drop the hook. We were joined by a couple of other boats by sundown, but this was by far the fewest boats we've seen in the anchorage. Two of the "go fast" boats that bring cruise ship passengers down to see the friendly iguanas left as we dropped anchor.
Cruise ship passenagers visiting the iguanas
With W winds forecast to blow in the 15 - 25k range, we planned to stay for at least 2 nights. And blow it did, with waves splashing above parts of the cay to our west. What we hadn't counted on was the surge, which combined with the wind held us cross wise to the waves, causing us to rock and roll, especially at high tide. With these wind conditions on the banks, it was unlikely that we'd see the cruise ship folks. But we did have a visit from Aqua Cat, a big stay-a-board dive boat, who came in off the Exuma Sound. They ran their guests over for a photo op with the iguanas. We heard later that dive conditions weren't the greatest, the wind had cut down on visibility.
We dinghied over to SW Allan and poked around the beaches, giving the iguanas our vegetable scraps which were a big hit. On the way back, the outboard decided to act up. Thankfully we were past the opening where we'd had some big (by dinghy standards) waves to splash over and current, and were only a short paddle away from Antares. We've made it a practice to always take a screw driver with some fine wire attached for cleaning out the injector. However it would appear there is also a fuel feed issue. Not exactly the kind of problem we need, now that we are away from civilization and parts.
We paddled over to Leaf Cay, taking our snorkeling gear, and hiked over to the sound. There is a nice little beach with a few coral heads which made for a nice first snorkel from shore. I had managed to convince Leonard to fill up our solar shower when we took on water. It worked like a charm and I had my first hot shower in weeks. Leonard has become a convert too, reminding me to fill it in the morning.
After some debate, we took the northern entrance out into the Sound and headed toward Normans Cay on Tuesday. Someone has forgotten to inform the wind god that it's supposed to blow from the E or NE in these parts. Unfortunately there are very few anchorages that offer protection from the west which complicates things. Maybe it's part of the global warming issue, changing where the high and low pressure areas usually pass. So far, we've not heard a hint of E or NE winds in any of the forecasts. Under normal conditions, a cold front arrives with winds from the S and SW ahead of it. Then the winds clock through the W to the N and then blow out of the NE until the next frontal system. We left Nassau with W winds which went to the NW for a day before veering back to the W where they're forecast to remain.
It was a short sail down to the E side of Normans Cay. There were 2 possibilities for anchoring, one in a bight with an entrance to Normans Pond, a hurricane hole in the center of the cay, and the other in the cut by the airplane wreck. We joined a contingent of Canadians (just like at home) already anchored in the bight. It made for a pleasant anchorage, no swell to set us dancing, and fine provided we didn't get an E wind.
We got into Normans Pond before the outboard quit. I tossed an anchor out while Leonard fiddled with it, getting it to run enough to get us back out. It would have been a long paddle, but doable with neither wind or current to hinder us. We'd taken our snorkeling gear, so we visited a beach close to the boat and then went out to a near by reef to snorkel. We saw a few fish and one huge ray, hunkered down on the bottom. After paddling back to the boat, Leonard took the fuel pump and the carborator apart looking for the problem. Unfortunately nothing really appeared to be wrong, and his usual magic (take it apart, put it back together, and it's fixed) didn't work. We will remember to bring the following on every and any dinghy trip: Oars, screw driver with wire attached, glass jar for fuel when checking the carborator, and anchor. Probably should carry the hand held VHF too in case we really get into trouble!
With a reservation at Emerald Rock at Warderick Wells, we headed back to the bank through Normans Cut. The sky was overcast, making it difficult to eye ball the water depths, and the charts on the chart plotter tend to have no depths marked. We worked our way past a number of boats anchored in the channel, slowing when the depth went under 8 feet. The crashed drug running airplane site was a bust. Not much to be seen above the water.
As we headed south, we were hailed on the VHF. It was I Needa Wind, one of the boats we left the lake with, was headed north past us . We decided to cancel our Warderick Wells reservation and head back to Hawksbill Cay and join the Vermont contingent for the night. After picking up one of the Exuma Park moorings, Leonard spent part of the afternoon buried in the anchor locker repairing the wires to the bow running lights which had once again gotten jarred loose by the anchor chain. It's a good thing he's small, otherwise I would have had to do the work with lots of instructions. Unfortunately we didn't make it ashore for a walk on the beach.
Showing off the new chartplotter
We had a great time catching up with Francie and Ken, Nancy and Cal and meeting Barb and Bill aboard Snow Goose. We thought we'd been ships passing in the night, surprised to find each other on the Exuma Banks, but the had weather delayed everyone's plans. We may possibly catch up with Francie and Ken on the way back north, since they are not in a rush, and as Ken said, "being cold on the way south is no incentive to hurry back north!" Everyone agrees the weather has been unusual this winter.
During the evening it clouded over and drizzled just enough to make things damp, but not enough to give the decks a freshwater rinse. Once the rain stopped, the wind went back into the west and blew between 15 - 20 all night, giving the anchorage the entire fetch of the bank, setting us rocking and rolling. Everyone was up in time to catch the Highbourne daily weather report, and the north bound boats soon departed headed for the anchorage on the east side of Normans Cay and looking for calmer waters. It had been too rough to land dinghies on the beach, and with dogs on board, they needed to make a dog shore run ASAP.
We hung around long enough to get our mooring reservation in the north field at Warderick Wells. Spending a few days at the park will give us a chance to get online for more complete weather reports and check our email. There were more cold fronts forecast to arrive during the weekend, and that anchorage also has as good of protection as any in the Exumas. We were delighted to find we'd been assigned the mooring closest to the park ranger's office, so if the outboard acts up, it's an easy paddle. We managed a clean pick up of the mooring, not always such an easy task since a current can flow upwards of 2 knots through the mooring field, and when combined with wind and huge lines on the moorings it can be easy to misjudge or miss the lines. We're looking forward to some walks on shore, the hiking trails are interesting and we've enjoyed them on past visits.
Storm clouds approaching the channel into Exuma Park North Harbor as seen from Boo Boo Hill
Sent 3/19/2010 from Exuma Park
We are once again enjoying our stay at the Exuma Land and Sea Park. We managed to get up BooBoo Hill and down to the beach before a big black cloud sent us scurrying back to the the boat to close the hatches. We beat the rain, and could have used a bit more to really get the decks rinsed. Since we were back on board, I spent the rest of the afternoon making bread and a coffee cake so we'd have something for dessert and breakfast. I'm look forward to reaching the Family Islands so I can buy really good, fresh read from the local women. The loaf of coconut bread we got in Bimini was gone all too soon.
With no rain in the forecast, we set off
on a hike the next
morning. Even though we wore better shoes this time, our feet and
legs were sore by the time we were done. Hiking boots would be
the best choice, but with limited space and need, they don't make the
"take along" list. The island is fairly big, and the trails
mainly rough limestone rocks, pocked with sink holes of varying sizes,
making for a long day. We walked for 5 1/2 hours, much of it over
very uneven and rough terrain. (Many rocks look like small
mountain ranges with sharp, jagged peaks.) The thought of
sticking a foot in one of the sink holes kept me watching my feet
rather than the scenery. Then there is the possibility of falling
into one of the big holes that are along the paths, some look to be 25
feet deep and several feet across, many with water in them.
One of many sinkholes by the trail
One of many sinkholes by the trail
A pond in the center
Some of signs left by cruisers on Boo Boo Hill
This year we managed to find a trail we'd not taken in the past, which snaked along a ridge on the west side of the island. Unfortunately there was no direct trail back to the ranger's station, and we had to walk back across the island to get a trail that did. A bit frustrating when you can see where you want to go, but can't get there. We enjoyed the views from the hill tops which were stunning with a lot of different colors of blue and green in the water and the various cays in the distance.
Beachs and moorings at the Emerald Rock Anchorage
Unfortunately the park is a "no take" zone, so I can't take all the neat stuff I find on the beaches. Perhaps that's why there is more interesting shells to be found, especially along the beaches on the Sound (Atlantic) shore. We also saw a lot of curly tailed lizards who seem to enjoy sunning themselves on top of the rock cairns along the trail. Bananachits, a small bird about the size of a chickadee, are a common sight, especially by the ranger's station where people get them to eat our of their hands. On our hike, we saw one getting a drink from water trapped in a palm tree.
We plan to spend another night here before heading to Cambridge Cay, also in the park with moorings, but without internet access for a few days to allow another cold front to clear the area. Since we arrived in the Bahamas about 2 weeks before we have in the past, we aren't in a rush to head south. Hopefully the weather pattern will smooth out, with fewer cold fronts and the winds from the W or NW not a problem. We heard on one of the VHF weather reports that the wind has been out of whack for the past 2 months, not blowing out of the E or NE as usual.
Sent 3/24/2010 from Staniel Cay
There was a well attended shore party Saturday night on the Exuma Park beach where we met some of our fellow cruisers. We were told it was the first bonfire party in 6 or 8 weeks due to the persistent N NW winds which made having a bonfire a hazard. We reconnected with Liz and Chris, who we'd met at the yachtsman lunch on Nassau, and are now headed toward the Abacos, so we won't see them again this trip.
One couple we met, the Williams aboard New Horizons, know the Caldwells, friend's from Vermont, whom they met when doing the Great Loop a few years ago. It's interesting to see how interconnected the cruising community is. We also spoke with a young Belgian who's a guest on a catamaran, Avalon, which seems be following us from anchorage to anchorage. He was very impressed with the beauty of the Bahamas. Said he'd been a lot of exotic places like Thailand and the Philippines where he's gone diving, but has never seen water colors like here.
When the party broke up, about 2100, I noticed a small animal scurrying along the sand bank behind the beach. We'd never seen a hutia, the small, guinea pig like rodent, indigenous to the Bahamas. We'd seen a number of small foot prints in the sand during our walks, as well as a lot of small oval shaped "seeds". Apparently hutias are not endangered as we saw a number of them scampering in the dunes that evening, and we learned all the "seeds" we've seen were droppings.
A Hutia eating a piece of popcorn. (Taken on the return portion of the trip)
With the weekly cold front approaching, bringing W and NW winds scheduled to arrive Monday afternoon, we headed for Cambridge Cay early Sunday morning to beat the crowd. We stuck our nose out into the Sound, but with 4 foot seas and 15 knots of head winds decided it would be easier (if longer) to do battle on the Banks. It was the only day this trip where we didn't set any sail.
Exuma Park has installed 14 moorings at Cambridge Cay and usually has a "host" boat on site to collect mooring fees and help folks. Five years ago, when we first anchored there, we had the anchorage to our selves. Not so now. By mid afternoon all 14 moorings were filled and 5 other boats were anchored. There were also 2 tug boats and a treasure hunting ship that was serving as a hostel for workers constructing more buildings on Bell Island, so there wasn't a lot of room to spare. Apparently the owner of Bell Island doesn't care to have his work crew within view of his home, and has plenty of money to use 900 horses (Three 300hp outboards on the runabout) to run them out of sight! It is a great anchorage to ride out fronts since it has good protection behind cays or sand banks in all directions. Through out the afternoon we heard other boats calling the host boat about available moorings or anchoring space.
A Front Line Approaching
After the morning shower passed, we went ashore for a walk. One of the moored boats was a crewed yacht with a group of guests. We'd seen them having a picnic, complete with big beach umbrellas, Sunday afternoon. Like most yachts, they have a good sized center console runabout that is used to ferry people around. They dropped off a group of folks on the beach just ahead of us. We walked across the island with one of the guests, a man from California. I was surprised to learn he had no idea of where they'd been or were headed (the captain takes us), or the fact that some of the plants along the walk were poison wood and could cause problems. It would be a different way to travel, but somehow not as interesting to me as knowing more about the area. We brought our snorkeling gear ashore hoping the reef by Bell Rock would be calm enough to explore, but there were enough waves to discourage us from trying. Instead I got Leonard to hike to the end of the path on the headland overlooking Bell Cut. We saw 2 none-tidal ponds in the low lying area and had a nice view of the cays strung out to the north. On the hike down we saw a snake, not sure if it was one of the native boa constrictors or not. We've read they are fairly small and harmless.
We added another "I can't believe this is happening" experience to our sailing lore. When the front line came through with the wind switch, we managed to snare the mooring line around our keel. We couldn't figure out why we were the only boat facing the "wrong" way. I'd tried moving the rudder to see if we'd straighten out to no avail, and it wasn't until we were wiping the decks down after the rain that Leonard saw the mooring line running under the boat and ball under the boat out of sight. We discussed casting off the mooring lines to see if that would free us, but wondered what we'd do if it didn't. Leonard's decision was to wait for the current to die down, in a couple of hours, and see if we'd swing free. We were very happy that this option worked. What we did get during the night was the mooring ball tapping on the hull since the winds had gone light.
The cold front brought cooler temperatures again. We'd hoped to snorkel around the little reef by the anchorage area that we found on our first trip, but the combination of cool water and air temperatures, made the thought of getting wet and cold not all that appealing. Water is probably in the the lower seventy's, much cooler than normal for these parts. Instead we motored over to the buoy by the plane wreck and seaquarium and waited for the air to warm up a bit. There were 3 large (100' plus) crewed yachts at anchor, complete with lots of water toys and people, in the deeper water between the cays.
Leonard tried out his shorty wet suit and said it helped keep him a bit warmer. I had a good time at the seaquarium where there were lots of fish. You can almost touch the sergeant majors and little blue chromis as they swim past. It really is a great spot to snorkel since you can keep out of the current and there are many fish. We went over to check the plane wreck where a lot more current was flowing. I was cold enough that I didn't go into the water, and Leonard only stayed a short time. It can be hard to keep up current of the dinghy when its running a knot or better.
Rather than stay on the mooring, we moved to a spot behind Little Halls Cay where we could explore a couple of small cays that aren't marked as privately owned. It's a protected by the little cays to the NE and a sand bank that almost gets dry at low tide to the W. Having run out of bread, I started a batch before we dinghied ashore for a walk. Before dinner we were joined by Avalon, the catamaran that's been following us.
We headed to Staniel Cay on Wednesday. We'd heard talk on the VHF that the supply ship was due in and we needed a few things. They also have an internet connection at the yacht club (no longer free), and we could get gas for the out board and take on water. Fuel hasn't been a problem this trip, we maybe used 10 gallons since leaving Miami, and we topped it off at Nassau, so the gauge still reads full. It was a bit of a slow sail, but an easy reach out on the Sound, so we didn't have to dodge sand banks. It's been interesting to find either very little information on the chart plotter charts, or in a few places, very detailed info. Sometimes we've found the "magenta line" heading over sand banks we'd rather avoid.
The stone carn marking Big Rock Cut
We came in Big Rock Cut, behind Thunderball Grotto, a bit before high tide, so it was easy. A number of boats were anchored east of the Grotto, and others were tucked in behind Big Majors Spot. Both would be decent anchorages for west winds. In the past we've anchored over by the pig beach on Big Majors which is a good 1 1/2 miles from town. We dropped anchor at the edge of the shoal off Staniel Cay Yacht Club, intending it to be a lunch stop with a run ashore for provisions. Unfortunately the boat we saw picking its way out the cut had been the mail boat, not the supply boat. It is, after all, island time and things happen in good time, and we're in paradise! We did get a few oranges and will head back ashore to get more fruit and vegetables when the boat finally arrives.
Leonard, who was much happier with our location than I was, ran out our little Danforth anchor to help keep us off the shoal behind us at low tide and the current switch. I'm not keen on bottom bumping during the night. In the past we haven't found the holding to be all that good at this spot and have always moved for the night. However, it's a convenient location, just a short run to the dinghy dock and the wind's to stay light for the next day. The promise of a drink and appetizers that I don't have to fix is tempting. The bar here had a really great frozen drink.
Weather wise, we can expect this week's cold front to pass through sometime during the weekend and then have settled weather again for a few days. From what we hear on the Blue Yonder weather in the mornings, the frontal systems lack the punch they've had earlier in the year, which is just fine with us.
Lynnea
From Georgetown, 3/31/2010
Hi,
The supply boat finally arrived at Staniel Cay about 1700, just as we headed ashore for a walk. It's a real event when the ship comes in! By the time we arrived at the Government Dock, there were folks parked in their golf carts and trucks, watching the unloading of everything from building supplies and cement to eggs. We stood and watched a while before continuing on our walk. Good news, fresh produce in the stores by morning, so I'd be able to replenish my dwindling supply. We stopped at the yacht club bar for a beer and conch fritters before dinghying back to the boat. A lot more expensive than at Potter's Cay in Nassau. Staniel Cay has gotten expensive. What was free internet in the bar has been taken over by a company that provides internet services to the entire Exuma chain and charges $10/day.
The supply boat arrives
When we got to the store in the morning, it looked like things were going quickly. We hadn't known when the stores would open, being on island time and all, but it must have been early. I managed to spend a lot of money for a minimum of supplies. The produce had 2 price tags, one that had been put on before shipping, and another at 2X for the local cost. My sense is that the allure of being at Staniel Cay carries a higher price tag than at some of the other family islands - must be in the name and the 007 (James Bond) connection. All in all, I'd guess the locals make a pretty good living off the cruisers and tourists. Anyway, like the bar tab, we chalked it up to the cost of cruising.
Back at the yacht club dock a local was busy cleaning someone's fresh catch. They had a nice string of mahi mahi, and the sharks and rays were putting on quite a show, enjoying the scraps being tossed into the water. I remembered to be extra careful when I got into the dinghy - the ladders aren't all that sturdy and it's a loig way down to the water. Even if they were small sharks, I didn't want to join the food chain.
The daily catch being cleaned
Sharks which feed on fish cleaning scraps
A weak cold front was due to pass through the area on Friday, swinging the winds through the W to the NW. After another short walk ashore to pick up a loaf of local bread (also priced at Staniel rates), we moved to a spot between the Majors Cays, joining 2 multi-hulls already there. Once we were anchored we realized we should have topped off the water tanks before we moved so we could just head out into the Sound the next morning. Taking on water at the yacht club is more convenient than at most marinas, and with the second tank (of three) almost empty, getting water was a must. The water at Staniel is reverse osmosis, expensive, but better tasting than many places.
The protected anchorage between the Majors
Before lunch we dinghyed over to a small beach to go exploring. The cay, privately owned, precluded exploring beyond the small beach. By mid afternoon, with the wind still light, Leonard suggested heading to a bigger beach on the back side of Big Majors, about 3/4 of a mile away. Someone had lost their boat, probably this season, which was on the rocks by the beach. It's a tad unsettling to see just how thin the hull between you and the deep blue sea can be. The boat had been holed on both sides, and the opening was flexing in the waves action. The boat had been stripped of anything useful, with small piles of debris on the beach. It appeared to be between 35 and 40 feet - it's hard to judge the length looking at the bottom, instead of the decks.
The beaches on Big Majors
We spent some time snorkeling on the way back to the boat, finding a couple of nice coral patches with lots of fish. We also stopped at a second beach that had more shells and fewer foot prints (my kind of a beach). By the time we got back to the boat, we'd been joined by several more boats, a mix of sail and power, all with the same idea of sitting out the front in protected waters. If a front passed we didn't notice more than a bit of a wind switch and a brief sprinkle to add to the humidity.
After returning to Staniel Cay Yacht Club in the morning to take on water, we headed out into the Sound, bound for Black Point and the laundromat. The night had been hot and humid, and everything being salty felt clammy, the thought of clean, dry clothes was appealing. By not going over the Banks, it was only a 5 mile trip and by noon we were anchored just off the laundromat dock. The wind had picked up a bit out of the NE making docking the dinghy a bit tricky. I was delighted to find things as nice as I'd remembered, clean and a place to sit in the breeze and shade with a view of the harbor. Not only did we wash clothes, I also got my hair trimmed and picked up coconut bread from Loraine's Mom, next door. I like one stop shopping. Ida, the woman running the laundromat was kept busy trimming cruiser's hair all afternoon. She said she trained in Nassau when she was younger.
Loraine's Mom was plaiting palm fronds when I arrived, and I asked if she sold baskets or things she made. Unfortunately she ships her plaiting to Nassau where someone else makes items to sell at the straw market. I inquired if she'd sell some of her plaiting, explaining I'd like something that had been made by someone I knew, rather than buying a basket in a stall. She was willing to sell me the roll she was working on, which she measured out as fathoms, arms wide apart and counting! She trimmed off the frond ends and spread it out in the sun while I got my hair cut and did laundry. She showed me how to stretch the plaiting once it's dried, to make it more tightly woven, and instructed me to spread it out to dry on board until Tuesday (it just about fills the cockpit). I'm looking forward to playing with it, and possibly figuring out how the plaiting is done. To watch the women working, their hands move so fast it's hard to take in all the details.
With clean clothes, fresh bread and some eggs I'd picked up at the store (the prices at Black Point were more reasonable and in line with what I'd remembered), Leonard decided we'd head south, making use of the wind to push us toward Georgetown, rather than stay the night. Black Point doesn't offer any protection from W to N winds, and when the wind blows from those quadrants, it is unpleasant at best, with waves reflecting back from the curved shore. Once we rounded the point, we set sail and had a great reach, with the knot meter hovering around 7 knots. Thinking we could possibly head to Georgetown on Sunday, we pushed down to an anchorage by Big Farmers Cay, by passing Little Farmers Cay which has a small settlement and a yacht club. The anchorage offered reasonable protection from NW to the SE, but if the wind moved to the S to W, we'd need to move behind Little Gallant Cay a bit further S and W. For once, we had the anchorage to ourselves.
Unfortunately the wind was blowing out of the E in the morning, making it a 35 plus mile beat to Georgetown, not something either of us wanted to do. Blue Yonder weather (along with Lorain's husband's opinion) predicts the front, stronger than the last few, will pass through by Monday night, with the strongest winds proceeding the front blowing from the SE to S. The Sound was awash with 4 - 6 foot seas, so common sense dictated sitting tight. Once south of Rudder Cay, the water on the Banks is too shallow for our draft and we have to go out into the Sound. There are places to tuck back in along the way, but getting there would be a wet, salty sail.
Monday morning the wind was still blowing out of the SSE. Rather than sit at anchor, we started south thinking about anchoring off Moosha Cay, just south of Cave Cay. But the morning Blue Yonder weather forecast predicted no improvement, and in fact suggested that maybe the fishermen might consider staying in port until the front passed, so I suggested we call Cave Cay Marina and inquire about rates. Leonard did, and at $2/foot, didn't make a reservation thinking the shallow water off Moosha Cay would keep the wave height down in spite of a long fetch, making that a viable and inexpensive, option. As we headed south I said I would be willing to spring for the cost and maybe we should just tuck in for the duration. I was looking forward to a walk on a beach after having sat tight for a day. With the wind blowing and the cays privately owned, we wouldn't be likely to launch the dinghy if we anchored, and I wasn't looking forward to just sitting for another day.
When Leonard saw the buoys marking the entrance (not on any of our charts), he headed in. At least we'd get a full day for the price sine it was only 0900. Steve, the dock master, was very helpful and welcoming. Getting into the slip was downwind with a starboard tie up, not the best of conditions since the bow comes in and the stern kicks out when we reverse the engine. With a bit of help from some other folks on the dock, Leonard managed a graceful landing. It helped that the slip was meant for a much longer vessel than Antares. The slip came with free internet, showers and laundry, and since the wind was still blowing, we didn't need to pay for electricity.We'd also have access to the eastern half of the island, including beaches. Due to the high winds, the internet wasn't working, but we couldn't really complain since it was free. The beach was a short walk down the runway and had lots of shells. I was happy. The wind could blow since the harbor was an enclosed hurricane hole. We spent the day poking around the island. On our last trip, we'd anchored just past the harbor entrance and took the dinghy in to take a look. At that time the marina was under construction and only selling fuel.
Lynnea exploring another beach
I was exploring the dump
We later learned that Steve's Dad had always dreamed of owning an
island and had bought Cave Cay back in the late 1980's or early
1990's. They have been slowly improving the facilities and harbor
ever
since, with the marina officially opening 3 or 4 years ago. There
is a
dirt runway just past the marina, and housing for owners and
staff.
Several rental units were under construction, along with a club house
that will serve the marina. They have their own dredge, and have
deepened the entrance channel to 5 1/2 feet at low tide (the depths are
better on the sides due to a "hard spot" in the middle of the
channel). Steve commented that they don't advertise, but hope
that
word of mouth will spread the word from satisfied customers. We
never
got the internet to work but before we left, he gave us an 8x10 color
photo of Antares on the dock in the harbor, a nice memento.
The wind blew hard enough to keep the batteries at full charge, in spite of being a protected harbor. I heard on the local news that a tornado touched down in Grand Bahama (further N), causing some damage before the front went through. A number of boats chose to duck into a safe harbor for the night, including an 81' power catamaran with a 32' beam which arrived in the evening. Once again, we're one of the smaller boats on the dock.
The large catamaran
With the weather a bit more settled by morning, we headed out for Georgetown. Conditions weren't too bad as we went out Cave Cay Cut since we were just past high tide. Last time we used this cut, the wind an current were doing their special dance and we buried the bow in a couple of waves before we reached the calmer waters of the Sound. The wind blew from dead astern most of the day, so we only ran out the jib and put the pole on. It can be tricky to keep both sails filled when running wing and wing, especially when there is a swell running. The swell was between 2 - 3 feet with the bigger ones coming at regular intervals, which pushed us along our way as we rocked and rolled.
About an hour out of Georgetown the wind went a bit lighter, so we motor sailed the last 5 miles or so to Conch Cut, the entrance into Georgetown, arriving around 1630. We worked our way up to the anchorage areas and finally picked a spot for the night on the Stocking Island side of the harbor. We guestimated there were about 130 boats at anchor between all the spots, well down from the 400 - 500 that are here for the Cruiser's Regatta in early March, which is just fine with us since we don't like big crowds.
After listening to the Cruiser's Net on the VHF this morning, not quite NPR but better than the local AM station) we heard the weather should be settled through the weekend and that the Long Island Regatta is this weekend. So we're thinking once we get things squared away on board, we'll join the group that are headed over for the festivities. It was a lot of fun when we went on our last trip. The race will most likely be on Monday, part of the 4 day Easter holiday that's celebrated in the islands. We passed an outbound supply ship on our way in, so the stores should be stocked for the pre-holiday rush. Mom's Bakery van should be in town tomorrow, and I'd love a loaf of her bread along with hot cross buns and a rum cake. With that on board, maybe we don't need so many groceries.
An interesting note. Between Miami and Georgetown, we used approximately 1/4 tank of fuel, far less than on past trips. We have done more sailing and have chosen not to move when the winds were against us. We did top off the tank in Nassau with a few gallons, and it's nice to see the gauge still above 7/8ths full.
Hi,
The supply boat finally arrived at Staniel Cay about 1700, just as we headed ashore for a walk. It's a real event when the ship comes in! By the time we arrived at the Government Dock, there were folks parked in their golf carts and trucks, watching the unloading of everything from building supplies and cement to eggs. We stood and watched a while before continuing on our walk. Good news, fresh produce in the stores by morning, so I'd be able to replenish my dwindling supply. We stopped at the yacht club bar for a beer and conch fritters before dinghying back to the boat. A lot more expensive than at Potter's Cay in Nassau. Staniel Cay has gotten expensive. What was free internet in the bar has been taken over by a company that provides internet services to the entire Exuma chain and charges $10/day.
The supply boat arrives
When we got to the store in the morning, it looked like things were going quickly. We hadn't known when the stores would open, being on island time and all, but it must have been early. I managed to spend a lot of money for a minimum of supplies. The produce had 2 price tags, one that had been put on before shipping, and another at 2X for the local cost. My sense is that the allure of being at Staniel Cay carries a higher price tag than at some of the other family islands - must be in the name and the 007 (James Bond) connection. All in all, I'd guess the locals make a pretty good living off the cruisers and tourists. Anyway, like the bar tab, we chalked it up to the cost of cruising.
Staniel Cay Yacht Club serving large power yachts
(three docked and one approaching)
In the afternoon we went back ashore and took a walk to the ocean
beaches and back along the cliffs overlooking the entrance
channel. A
number of new places were under construction above the beaches and it
appeared there were building sites being prepared by the channel.
It
would be a shame if the trails were closed once someone moves in.
The
views were great. We were glad it wasn't as hot as the last
time we
were here, with enough of an ocean breeze to make it pleasant, and keep
the bugs away.Back at the yacht club dock a local was busy cleaning someone's fresh catch. They had a nice string of mahi mahi, and the sharks and rays were putting on quite a show, enjoying the scraps being tossed into the water. I remembered to be extra careful when I got into the dinghy - the ladders aren't all that sturdy and it's a loig way down to the water. Even if they were small sharks, I didn't want to join the food chain.
The daily catch being cleaned
Sharks which feed on fish cleaning scraps
A weak cold front was due to pass through the area on Friday, swinging the winds through the W to the NW. After another short walk ashore to pick up a loaf of local bread (also priced at Staniel rates), we moved to a spot between the Majors Cays, joining 2 multi-hulls already there. Once we were anchored we realized we should have topped off the water tanks before we moved so we could just head out into the Sound the next morning. Taking on water at the yacht club is more convenient than at most marinas, and with the second tank (of three) almost empty, getting water was a must. The water at Staniel is reverse osmosis, expensive, but better tasting than many places.
The protected anchorage between the Majors
Before lunch we dinghyed over to a small beach to go exploring. The cay, privately owned, precluded exploring beyond the small beach. By mid afternoon, with the wind still light, Leonard suggested heading to a bigger beach on the back side of Big Majors, about 3/4 of a mile away. Someone had lost their boat, probably this season, which was on the rocks by the beach. It's a tad unsettling to see just how thin the hull between you and the deep blue sea can be. The boat had been holed on both sides, and the opening was flexing in the waves action. The boat had been stripped of anything useful, with small piles of debris on the beach. It appeared to be between 35 and 40 feet - it's hard to judge the length looking at the bottom, instead of the decks.
The beaches on Big Majors
We spent some time snorkeling on the way back to the boat, finding a couple of nice coral patches with lots of fish. We also stopped at a second beach that had more shells and fewer foot prints (my kind of a beach). By the time we got back to the boat, we'd been joined by several more boats, a mix of sail and power, all with the same idea of sitting out the front in protected waters. If a front passed we didn't notice more than a bit of a wind switch and a brief sprinkle to add to the humidity.
After returning to Staniel Cay Yacht Club in the morning to take on water, we headed out into the Sound, bound for Black Point and the laundromat. The night had been hot and humid, and everything being salty felt clammy, the thought of clean, dry clothes was appealing. By not going over the Banks, it was only a 5 mile trip and by noon we were anchored just off the laundromat dock. The wind had picked up a bit out of the NE making docking the dinghy a bit tricky. I was delighted to find things as nice as I'd remembered, clean and a place to sit in the breeze and shade with a view of the harbor. Not only did we wash clothes, I also got my hair trimmed and picked up coconut bread from Loraine's Mom, next door. I like one stop shopping. Ida, the woman running the laundromat was kept busy trimming cruiser's hair all afternoon. She said she trained in Nassau when she was younger.
Loraine's Mom was plaiting palm fronds when I arrived, and I asked if she sold baskets or things she made. Unfortunately she ships her plaiting to Nassau where someone else makes items to sell at the straw market. I inquired if she'd sell some of her plaiting, explaining I'd like something that had been made by someone I knew, rather than buying a basket in a stall. She was willing to sell me the roll she was working on, which she measured out as fathoms, arms wide apart and counting! She trimmed off the frond ends and spread it out in the sun while I got my hair cut and did laundry. She showed me how to stretch the plaiting once it's dried, to make it more tightly woven, and instructed me to spread it out to dry on board until Tuesday (it just about fills the cockpit). I'm looking forward to playing with it, and possibly figuring out how the plaiting is done. To watch the women working, their hands move so fast it's hard to take in all the details.
With clean clothes, fresh bread and some eggs I'd picked up at the store (the prices at Black Point were more reasonable and in line with what I'd remembered), Leonard decided we'd head south, making use of the wind to push us toward Georgetown, rather than stay the night. Black Point doesn't offer any protection from W to N winds, and when the wind blows from those quadrants, it is unpleasant at best, with waves reflecting back from the curved shore. Once we rounded the point, we set sail and had a great reach, with the knot meter hovering around 7 knots. Thinking we could possibly head to Georgetown on Sunday, we pushed down to an anchorage by Big Farmers Cay, by passing Little Farmers Cay which has a small settlement and a yacht club. The anchorage offered reasonable protection from NW to the SE, but if the wind moved to the S to W, we'd need to move behind Little Gallant Cay a bit further S and W. For once, we had the anchorage to ourselves.
Unfortunately the wind was blowing out of the E in the morning, making it a 35 plus mile beat to Georgetown, not something either of us wanted to do. Blue Yonder weather (along with Lorain's husband's opinion) predicts the front, stronger than the last few, will pass through by Monday night, with the strongest winds proceeding the front blowing from the SE to S. The Sound was awash with 4 - 6 foot seas, so common sense dictated sitting tight. Once south of Rudder Cay, the water on the Banks is too shallow for our draft and we have to go out into the Sound. There are places to tuck back in along the way, but getting there would be a wet, salty sail.
Looking east at the sound from our anchorage
between Big Farmers Cay and Big Gallant Cay (not a navigable cut)
Palm Sunday was a quiet day, spent at anchor while the east wind
blew
between 20 - 25 knots all day. The upside of this was a fully
charged
battery bank. It's great when the wind generator does what it's
supposed to do, stop when the batteries are topped off, and start
charging again as we use power. I spent the morning cleaning the
cabin. An amazing amount of dust and
sand seems to find its way below decks at all too fast a pace. By late
afternoon we were joined by 2 other boats who chose to anchor just W of
the Big Gallant Cay, and a bit more out of the wind than we were.
The
wave action was a more pronounced as the tide rose, bringing in
more
waves. It was quite pleasant when the tide was out, the waves
broke on
the two bars, giving us more protection. We'd hoped the
winds would
die back a bit in the afternoon so we could have poked our nose out and
headed to Lee Stocking Cay which would offer decent protection when
the front arrived and would have us about 15 miles closer to
Georgetown. But if anything, the wind blew just a bit harder, so
we
opted to stay put. Monday morning the wind was still blowing out of the SSE. Rather than sit at anchor, we started south thinking about anchoring off Moosha Cay, just south of Cave Cay. But the morning Blue Yonder weather forecast predicted no improvement, and in fact suggested that maybe the fishermen might consider staying in port until the front passed, so I suggested we call Cave Cay Marina and inquire about rates. Leonard did, and at $2/foot, didn't make a reservation thinking the shallow water off Moosha Cay would keep the wave height down in spite of a long fetch, making that a viable and inexpensive, option. As we headed south I said I would be willing to spring for the cost and maybe we should just tuck in for the duration. I was looking forward to a walk on a beach after having sat tight for a day. With the wind blowing and the cays privately owned, we wouldn't be likely to launch the dinghy if we anchored, and I wasn't looking forward to just sitting for another day.
When Leonard saw the buoys marking the entrance (not on any of our charts), he headed in. At least we'd get a full day for the price sine it was only 0900. Steve, the dock master, was very helpful and welcoming. Getting into the slip was downwind with a starboard tie up, not the best of conditions since the bow comes in and the stern kicks out when we reverse the engine. With a bit of help from some other folks on the dock, Leonard managed a graceful landing. It helped that the slip was meant for a much longer vessel than Antares. The slip came with free internet, showers and laundry, and since the wind was still blowing, we didn't need to pay for electricity.We'd also have access to the eastern half of the island, including beaches. Due to the high winds, the internet wasn't working, but we couldn't really complain since it was free. The beach was a short walk down the runway and had lots of shells. I was happy. The wind could blow since the harbor was an enclosed hurricane hole. We spent the day poking around the island. On our last trip, we'd anchored just past the harbor entrance and took the dinghy in to take a look. At that time the marina was under construction and only selling fuel.
Lynnea exploring another beach
I was exploring the dump
The wind blew hard enough to keep the batteries at full charge, in spite of being a protected harbor. I heard on the local news that a tornado touched down in Grand Bahama (further N), causing some damage before the front went through. A number of boats chose to duck into a safe harbor for the night, including an 81' power catamaran with a 32' beam which arrived in the evening. Once again, we're one of the smaller boats on the dock.
The large catamaran
With the weather a bit more settled by morning, we headed out for Georgetown. Conditions weren't too bad as we went out Cave Cay Cut since we were just past high tide. Last time we used this cut, the wind an current were doing their special dance and we buried the bow in a couple of waves before we reached the calmer waters of the Sound. The wind blew from dead astern most of the day, so we only ran out the jib and put the pole on. It can be tricky to keep both sails filled when running wing and wing, especially when there is a swell running. The swell was between 2 - 3 feet with the bigger ones coming at regular intervals, which pushed us along our way as we rocked and rolled.
About an hour out of Georgetown the wind went a bit lighter, so we motor sailed the last 5 miles or so to Conch Cut, the entrance into Georgetown, arriving around 1630. We worked our way up to the anchorage areas and finally picked a spot for the night on the Stocking Island side of the harbor. We guestimated there were about 130 boats at anchor between all the spots, well down from the 400 - 500 that are here for the Cruiser's Regatta in early March, which is just fine with us since we don't like big crowds.
After listening to the Cruiser's Net on the VHF this morning, not quite NPR but better than the local AM station) we heard the weather should be settled through the weekend and that the Long Island Regatta is this weekend. So we're thinking once we get things squared away on board, we'll join the group that are headed over for the festivities. It was a lot of fun when we went on our last trip. The race will most likely be on Monday, part of the 4 day Easter holiday that's celebrated in the islands. We passed an outbound supply ship on our way in, so the stores should be stocked for the pre-holiday rush. Mom's Bakery van should be in town tomorrow, and I'd love a loaf of her bread along with hot cross buns and a rum cake. With that on board, maybe we don't need so many groceries.
An interesting note. Between Miami and Georgetown, we used approximately 1/4 tank of fuel, far less than on past trips. We have done more sailing and have chosen not to move when the winds were against us. We did top off the tank in Nassau with a few gallons, and it's nice to see the gauge still above 7/8ths full.